There is no place in the world quite like an island in the South Pacific. The water is so clear, the greens and blues and turquoises in every shade in between are simply mesmerizing. Jeff and I have cruised French Polynesia and the Cook Islands, and those experiences never leave you. But for travelers who prefer land-based travel, Fiji offers something the cruise itineraries can't: time in one place, with people who make you feel genuinely welcome from the moment you arrive. The Fijian greeting — bula — is not a formality. Neither is the invitation to join them for a bowl of kava, the traditional ceremonial drink that will leave your lips pleasantly numb and your sense of urgency noticeably reduced. Fiji Airways offers direct flights from LAX to Nadi International Airport, Fiji's main international airport.

Fiji sits about 1,300 miles east of Australia, an archipelago of thousands of islands, of which 322 are large enough to support human habitation and 111 are actually inhabited. The two largest islands — Viti Levu and Vanua Levu — are where you'll find the airports, the cities, and the infrastructure. But Fiji's soul is in its outer islands, and the right trip here accounts for both.

Choosing Where to Go

The Fiji in the brochures — white sand beaches, blue lagoons, palm trees leaning over still water — exists, but it lives on the outer islands rather than the main ones. If that's what you're after, you want to be on the Mamanuca or Yasawa island groups, both accessible from Nadi on the western coast of Viti Levu. The Mamanucas are closer and more developed; the Yasawas are more remote and more dramatic. The Blue Lagoon made famous by Hollywood is in the Yasawa Group, next to Nanuya Lailai Island.

The Water

Fiji is known among divers as the Soft Coral Capital of the World — a title it holds honestly. The visibility is exceptional and the variety of dive sites within a short boat ride of the main resorts is extraordinary. The Jean-Michel Cousteau resort on Vanua Levu, partly owned by Jacques Cousteau's son, is among the most respected dive operations in the Pacific. Snorkeling is free from almost every outer island beach, and the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands are particularly rewarding for it.

Surfing, sea kayaking, white-water rafting on the Upper Navua River, windsurfing, sailing on crewed yacht charters — Fiji has more ways to be in and on the water than most destinations can claim. Hikers will find excellent trails on virtually all of the outer islands, along with the Koroyanitu National Park and Nausori Highlands on Viti Levu itself.

Food & Culture

Resort dining in Fiji ranges from solid to genuinely excellent, particularly at the private island properties. Both Nadi and Suva have good international restaurant options — European, Asian, and Indian, a legacy of the large Indo-Fijian population whose ancestors arrived as indentured laborers in the 19th century. Indian food here is milder than on the subcontinent but worth seeking out; the sensible plan is lunch at an Indian restaurant and dinner somewhere with a full bar, since few Indian restaurants serve alcohol.

If you're invited to a lovo — a traditional Fijian feast — go. Roast pork, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, and a dozen other dishes cooked over hot stones in an underground oven. The local specialty kokoda (raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk) is exactly as good as it sounds. So is the fish in lolo (coconut cream). The kava ceremony, if offered, is worth participating in — it's the social lubricant of Fijian village life, and accepting the invitation is the right way to engage with the culture.

Shopping & Practical Notes

Fiji produces good pottery, tapa cloth, wood carvings, shell jewelry, and woven goods. Fijian war clubs and cannibal forks make genuinely unusual souvenirs — just buy them before heading to the airport, as duty-free shops in the departure lounge are not permitted to sell them. Avoid buying turtle-shell or whalebone products, which will be confiscated by U.S. Customs on your return. The Jack's handicrafts chain is a useful first stop to calibrate prices before you start bargaining at the markets.

Fiji is safe for tourists. The main cities warrant the same general caution as any unfamiliar city after dark — take a taxi rather than walking, keep an eye on your belongings, and don't leave valuables in hotel rooms or rental cars. The beaches and outer islands are as relaxed as they look.