Ricotta Ravioli
In a rich mushroom cream sauce — my own substitute for Chef Friso’s brown butter sage, and the dish that finally taught me not to lose the filling.
Ingredients
Ravioli Dough
- 2 ½ cups 00 flour (measuring by weight is more accurate, but volume works — adjust with more flour or water as needed)
- 3 large eggs, 1 egg yolk
- Dash of kosher salt
Ricotta-Spinach Filling
- 6 oz baby spinach leaves
- 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
- 1 shallot, finely diced
- 1 cup ricotta
- ½ cup grated Parmesan
- 1 egg
- 1/8 tsp nutmeg
- Zest of 1 lemon
- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Mushroom Cream Sauce
- 1 tbsp EVOO
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1 lb mixed mushrooms (cremini, portobello, shiitake, or wild), sliced thick
- 1 large sweet onion, diced
- 3 garlic cloves, diced
- 1 tbsp flour
- 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- ½ cup heavy cream
- 1/3 cup sour cream
- 2 tbsp chicken stock
- 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
For Garnish
- Parmesan cheese, fresh grated, to taste
- Fresh basil, rough chopped
Method
Make the dough
On a clean, well-floured counter or in a medium bowl, combine the flour, eggs, and salt, mixing by hand (counter method) or with a fork (bowl method) from the center until the dough comes together. If it’s too dry, add a splash of water. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead for 5–7 minutes, until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to an hour.
Make the filling
While the dough rests, heat the olive oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat and cook the shallot, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until pale golden. Add the spinach and a pinch of salt, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until fully wilted. Blot with a paper towel to remove excess oil, then set aside to cool (laying it on a plate in the freezer speeds this up). In a bowl, combine the ricotta, egg, Parmesan, lemon zest, and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper, then fold in the cooled spinach and shallot. Blend well in a food processor and scoop into a small bowl.
Roll the pasta
Flour a baking sheet for the cut ravioli. Cut the dough into quarters, rewrapping three of them in plastic and returning them to the fridge while you work the remaining piece. Knead briefly to loosen the gluten, form into a rectangle, and press as thin as you can by hand. Run it through a pasta roller starting on the widest setting, folding and passing it through a second time. Continue resetting the roller to progressively thinner settings, stopping at the second or third thinnest depending on how pliable the dough stays. Place on a towel and cover with a second towel. Repeat with a second dough quarter, rolling it one setting thinner than the first, and set aside on a towel.
Fill and seal
Using a piping bag or teaspoon, place about 1 teaspoon of filling on the first sheet at 2-inch intervals, leaving at least a 1-inch border for sealing. Dampen a finger in water and trace the edges of the dough and the spaces between the filling. Carefully drape the thinner sheet over the top, pressing closed at the center with the side of your hand, then work a finger around each mound of filling to evacuate the air and seal it shut.
Cut and chill
Use a cookie cutter or an inverted metal measuring cup to form and cut the ravioli. Press the cutter partway in without cutting all the way through, using your other hand to shape the filling and press out any remaining air, then seal the edges. Once all air is evacuated, press the cutter through completely. Peel each cut raviolo away and transfer to the floured tray; once full, cover with a cloth and move to the fridge. Repeat with the remaining two pieces of dough. To cook ahead, freeze uncovered on the tray, then transfer to a storage bag — they’ll keep frozen up to 4 weeks.
Boil the water
Bring a large stock pot of water to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Hold at a simmer until the sauce is ready for the cream, then add the ravioli one at a time, gently sliding each in and adjusting heat to keep the simmer steady.
Start the sauce
While the ravioli water heats, heat the EVOO and melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, tossing and stirring, for 6–8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, or until fragrant, being careful not to let it burn. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the mushrooms, and cook 7–10 minutes or longer, until golden and the moisture has evaporated. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute to cook it out.
Deglaze and finish the sauce
Combine the chicken stock, apple cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, and Dijon mustard, and add to the pan to deglaze. Reduce heat to low and whisk in the heavy cream. Remove from heat and stir in the sour cream.
Cook and combine
Let the ravioli cook for 2–4 minutes, until they rise to the surface. Use a spider to lift them directly from the pasta water into the sauce, spooning sauce over top and stirring so a little pasta water loosens the sauce into the pasta.
Serve
Pour a few tablespoons of sauce into the bottom of the serving dish, lay the ravioli on top, and drizzle with more sauce. Garnish with basil and freshly grated Parmesan. Serve immediately.
Notes
Pairs well with a simple green salad and a crisp white wine.
For a colorful variation: increase the spinach to 12 oz and, instead of wilting it with the shallot, cook it separately in EVOO until wilted, blot dry, cool, then knead it gradually into the pasta dough — it will turn the dough a vivid green. In this version, only the shallot needs sautéing for the filling, and the contrast between the green dough and white ricotta filling is a nice effect.